Hey people!
So, I got back from Manila on Sunday night. The trip wasn’t exactly what I was expecting. I knew the Philippines was a poor country, and I certainly didn’t expect to be going somewhere extremely modern with high living standards, but I thought Manila would have been a little more metropolitan than it was. Nonetheless, it was an awesome trip. I’ll break it down now.This is going to be really long. So brace yourself.
Thursday morning, I woke up around 4 AM and showered got my stuff together to meet Karen at the subway station at 6. We had to take the subway to a connecting station to take the Meitetsu Line to Chūbu International Airport. Once there everything went fairly smoothly. I needed to take money out of my bank account, though. And, apparently in Japan you can’t use ATMs before 8 AM? So we had to wait for like half an hour so I could withdraw money before we could leave. But, our flight didn’t take off until 9 and the airport wasn’t too busy, so everything still went off without a hitch.
We took off fine and flew to Taipei. We had a layover there for two hours. We posed for a few tourist pictures at signs that said “Welcome to Taipei!” and such but then we just waited in the terminal for our flight to Manila. Flying over the Philippines was really gorgeous. Seeing the north coastline with the mountains was something I’ll never forget.
We landed in Manila around 3 PM. Exchanged our money for pesos and got a Taxi to the hotel. The lady at the counter for the Taxis told us it would be about 300 pesos to get to the hotel (~6 dollars) so we just did it. But, the taxi didn’t have a meter and the driver when we got there told us, “Oh, I don’t like pesos. Can you just pay me ten US dollars?” At first we were like “… no. how much in pesos?” but he was really insistent so finally I just gave him a ten dollar bill I had and we parted ways. This should’ve been an early sign that Manila is one sketchy place, but we failed to recognize the signs that early.
Our hotel was a really nice place though. The room was clean, had air conditioning, and a really nice view of Manila. Karen and I put our bags in the room, cleaned up and rested a little bit, then went out to explore Manila. We started walking down the street towards the train station, because we wanted to go look at Chinatown and some churches around that area. While walking to the station though, it became clear pretty quickly what Manila was going to be like. The walk was about 5-10 minutes, but on the way there was just a bunch of people sitting around eyeing our bags and kids who were barely clothed staring us down. Granted, the area our hotel was in was a nicer part of Manila and these people weren’t in any way threatening but, I still wasn’t expecting there to be that level of poverty right outside our reasonably nice hotel. I was also suprised at the lack of sidewalks and traffic lights. They had sidewalks some places, but like they would be really beat up, and sometimes people would like take them over and just like live there. Also, traffic lights aren’t really commonplace. Even at really busy intersections. So, we ended up just following locals when we wanted to cross the street.
We took the train to Carriedo Station, then we walked to Santa Cruz Church. It was pretty, but mass was happening, so we couldn’t really look inside. From there we walked around looking for Chinatown. We got kinda lost though. The area was PACKED. There were crowds everywhere and street vendors basically lined the streets. So, we thought we were walking towards the Chinatown area, but instead we ended up in Quiapo, which had a beautiful church and lots of vendors around it. We walked around in this area for awhile instead. We found a café that seemed to have some good food. So we stopped in and got a dinner. We had Pata Tim which was this pork, and Guisado which is this noodle dish. There was also rice, a shaomai (a Chinese inspired dumpling). It was a decent amount of food for just ₱68 (~$1.50). Pretty good deal. Then we walked around some more, we stumbled upon a mall and decided to walk around inside it. It was like 4-5 floors and DECKED OUT in Christmas decorations. Karen and I were surprised that on October 29th, a mall would be ready for Christmas to this degree. There were Christmas trees everywhere, and all the music was Christmas songs (in English AND Tagalog). After we explored the mall, we stopped at this bakery where they were making Hopia outside. Hopia are like these pastry things filled with sweet sauce. We had Ube (purple yam) and Mongo (white bean paste). Each of them were ₱3 (~$.07) So, we lived large and got 2 each. After we ate, it was already pretty dark and some of the shops were closing down. We didn’t really want to be out too late, and we were pretty tired from our day of travelling. We got back to the hotel, took showers, and passed out.
The next day we had ordered a wake up call for 6 AM and got going pretty quickly. We had planned to go to Taal Lake. Its this big lake north of Manila. We took the train to the area where we planned to find the bus. But, since it’s Manila and there’s no clear directions places, we ended up being unable to find where we were supposed to get on the bus. So, we had to walk around to look for it. We walked through this sketchy area with a big crowd. I guess I got a little too lax because at one point someone slashed the front pocket of my bag in an attempt to steal my wallet or something. Thankfully it was only the front pocket that I didn’t keep anything in and nothing was stolen. But, still it’s annoying becuase my bag was ruined. (Side note: I got a bangin’ new one today with my friends. It’s really hot. And super Japanese.) Anyway, we eventually found some buses going to Tagaytay, which is where the lake is by. So, we just took that bus there. It was about an hour and a half away, and cost ₱78. Pretty good deal. I was loving the exchange rates at this point.
We get to Tagaytay, and Karen had found a company that takes tourists to the lake that seemed pretty legit. But, here we learned the problem with making plans in Manila if you’re not used to being there. People want to help you find where your going, if it means they can be the one to take you there in their taxi. So, as soon as we get off the bus we are mobbed with Filipinos asking us “Where you going? The lake? Need a ride? We can do that!” over and over again. No matter how much you tell them “No, we don’t need a ride.” The more they ask. If you ignore them it’s even worse, they just ask louder. So, eventually we just gave in and let this one guy give us a ride. We went in a tricycle. This was probably the scariest point in the trip. A tricycle is like this motorcycle with a sidecar that you squeeze into. It was about a 20 minute trip to lake so we were on really narrow, winding roads in this little side car fearing for our lives the entire time. At one point, the driver pulled over and I was just expecting him to kill us because we were in the middle of no where and before we left the guy who pulled us in and he talked a lot in Tagalog. So, I was just like “Karen. It was great knowing you.” But, no, he just had to pee, so he went to the side of the road and peed. Still kinda gross, but not shocking.
Anyway, we finally got to the Lake and the driver didn’t take us to the place we wanted to go. We had found a place online that had reasonable prices to go out onto the lake and take a horse ride up the volcano to see this massive lake inside the volcano on an island in the lake. However, this guy took us to his friends’ place, where they told us that the place we were going was a rip off and that their prices were better. That wasn’t exactly the case, and after being insistent on the driver taking us to the place we wanted to go, we reached an impasse that meant either walk 4km to the other place or just pay like ₱3500 to go out to the island on with these people. They wanted ₱7500 for the horse ride to the top. So we we just didn’t do that. Even though they told us time and time again that “most tourists go see the crater” but, we didn’t want to spend that much at a place that was clearly ripping us off.
We finally went out on the boat, which was nice and we got to the island in the lake. When we got there people crowded around us trying to sell us tacky hats and water. We just ignored them. But, when we got the island it turns out the only thing to do there is to take a horse up to the top to see the lake in the volcano. After everyone telling us how great it is for 1000 times we remained unshaken in our stance that we refused to do it. We really did, but it got to a point where we were tired of people unabashedly trying to just take advantage of us being tourists. So, we just sat around looking at the lake and thought about the people who lived there. There were a lot kids just playing in the water, and we were curious about what they like did. We assumed they didn’t go to school, and probably didn’t really leave this little island in a lake in the Philippine countryside. It was kinda depressing. So we just sat around taking in the scenery for about 30-40 minutes. Then we went back and our tricycle driver was waiting for us. We went back to the bus stop and paid him ₱300 for the ride there and back. When I paid, he rolled his eyes and said “No tip?” and I really wanted to just say “No.” but Karen gave him ₱20. A cheap tip by Philippine standards. So, at this point Karen and I were kinda frustrated at the people in the Philippines. We got on the bus to go back.
On the bus, we both kinda fell asleep and the conducter forgot to tell us when it was our stop, so we past it and neither of us realized. We ended up really far away from where we were going. But, the people on the bus all rallied together and helped us find where we wanted to go. This really restored my faith in the people there. Because, in reality, they’re all really friendly people and kind, but some of them just gotta make a living and I guess they do what they can. But, still it was frustrating at the time. But, we stopped at the next stop near a train station and took it the way this amazing lady on the bus told us to.
Our next stop that day was Intramuros, the walled city that the Spanish ruled the Philippines from for about 300 years. We got off the train at the station the lady on the bus told us to, and we had a general idea where to go, but people were bothering us to get in their taxi or tricycle to take us there. But, we asked this one lady which way to go, and she gave us really good directions, and while we talking to her, some man came up to us and started to bother us about where we were going. I’m pretty sure this lady told him to “Fuck off” in Tagalog.
So, we followed this lady’s directions and found where we were going really easily. The city was really beautiful. It felt like I was walking in a European city, but still remained somewhat Asian throughout it. Most of the buildings were reconstructed during the second half of the 20th century because they were all pretty much destroyed when the Americans retook the Philippines from the Japanese in WWII. The only building that was not completely destroyed was St. Augustine Church. This church was comparable to any European church I’ve seen. It was absolutely breathtaking. We also went to Casa Manila, a museum that had furniture from the colonial period arranged in a way it would’ve been when Spain controlled the islands. Then we walked to the Manila Cathedral which was my favorite building in Intramuros. After that we went to Fort Santiago. My only complaint about Intramuros was this group of kids around the the Cathedral that kept coming up to us singing “We Wish You a Merry Christmas” then asking for money. Over and over. But, after the fort it was starting to get dark at this point, so we started walking back towards the station to get back to the hotel.
We stopped an Internet cafe on our way back, and Karen found out that our boat trip to this island where the American forces were stationed during the American Colonial period was cancelled because there were typhoon warnings. So, we decided to go get some beer and food and head back to the hotel. We popped into a 7-11 (they’re EVERYWHERE) and got a San Miguel (a really shitty Filipino beer) and then we decided to try out this fast food chain we saw everywhere called Jollibee’s. I got spaghetti and Karen got a hamburger. It’s apparently a Filipino fast food restaurant that specializes in American cuisine. It was pretty good. Karen didn’t enjoy her burger that much, though. We finished off our beer, and showered and went to bed a little later than we were planning. We decided to sleep in a little bit the next day since our plans kinda fell through and we weren’t 100% sure what we were going to do.
We got up around 9:30-10:000 and went to eat breakfast in the hotel. Apparently that night, there was a pretty big typhoon, and we had no idea. But, when we woke up the hotel desk told us the hotel was running on a generator and the electricity was out around us. The stop lights (.. more like stop light..) outside wasn’t working and the trains weren’t running because there was no electricity.
As a result, we decided to go for a walk down this street near the hotel because it seemed to have some nice places around it.Then we’d cut over to Rizal Park, where Jose Rizal, a revolutionary for Philippine freedom in the late 19th century, was executed, and where the Philippines were declared to be independent of American rule by Truman in 1946. The park had a lot of history and nice ponds and stuff. It was relaxing. It was kinda cloudy and windy, so that made the heat of the Philippines a little better. We just strolled around there for an hour or so.
Then we decided to go to Paco Park, but it was closed because of the Typhoon. So, it was kinda messy. So instead we walked towards this gardens. This is when we learned why people advise against walking everywhere in Manila. We walked through one of the worst places I have ever seen. Everyone we passed at one point was just eyeing our bags and sizing us up. But in the background were tarps propped up that were obviously people’s homes. Then right next to a bunch of people sleeping in a ditch was a really nice mall. That you could have taken and put anywhere in the US and it would fit in fine. We got lunch in the mall. And talked about the sharp contrast from what’s outside to where we were sitting. We kind of realized that’s how Manila is. There is a really nice part, but the rest of the city isn’t that modern. Which is what I meant by it wasn’t was expecting. It was definitely a humbling experience, just unlike anything I have ever experienced.
Then we walked some more. We crossed this bridge and decided to find a train station because we weren’t really sure exactly what was around us, and we wanted to go try to find Chinatown again. We walked through another depressing slum and found the station. Another sharp contrast, this was probably the nicest station we had been in. It was comparable to any Japanese station (even better than some..). But right outside was a terrible slum. We took the train back to the area we were in the first night. We finally found Chinatown. It was a dump. Super crowded, people asking us for money everywhere. At this point we were exhausted and just wanted to go somewhere with modern amenities where we wouldn’t be bothered. So, we took the train to the area around The Mall of Asia. It’s the fourth largest mall in the world.
We got out of the station where we wanted to be. Someone asked us where we were going, and offered us a ride in a Jeepney. These old jeeps that are used kind of like buses in Manila. We were too tired to argue and just got in. But, surprisingly it was really nice. It costs a flat rate of ₱7 and takes you all over the city. This one was going straight to the mall. The mall was HUGGEE and modern looking. They had an ice skating rink inside, with a little girl doing a show. However, most of the stores were just Western brands and everything costs the same. But, it was nice to be somewhere clean and familiar.
After we felt better and walked around the mall enough, we took the Jeepney back to the station, and we went to Makati. Makati is like the business district of Manila. It could be taken out of Manila and put into any modern western city and fit right in. We realized how easily someone could believe Manila to be a modern metropolitan center if they never leave Makati. We went to the Hard Rock Café. Since it was Halloween all the waiters and waitresses were dressed up. They also had a Michael Jackson competition going on. People would dress up, sing and dance to MJ songs and then people would choose who they liked the best. It was a good time. We got some appetizers and drinks and enjoyed ourselves, unwinding from the long day.
We left a little later than usual and got the train back to the place we needed to change trains, but the other train apparently stops before 11 PM? Because it was no longer running. So, we found a Jeepney that would take us to the station by our hotel. It was weird at first though. Because we asked a Taxi to take us there, but I guess it was too close because he said no. Then we asked a tricycle, and he said no, too. But, he did show us where the Jeepnies were to get a ride there.
So, then we got back to the hotel and packed our stuff up in preparation to leave the next morning. We laid around and reflected on our trip before going to sleep. We decided that it wasn’t what either of us was expecting, but we both agree that it was a worthwhile trip. Would I want to go back to the Philippines? Probably not. But, I’m glad I went. It was definitely a memorable fall break! I doubt next year’s will be able to compare.
We obviously got back to Nagoya fine. We had a five hour layover in Taipei this time. So, we started going bar hopping in the airport. We’d get a beer then walk some more til we found another restaurant or bar. It passed the time. But, we got back on Sunday around 11 PM. I was really glad to be back in Japan. It’s weird how a place doesn’t seem that great until you go somewhere that makes you appreciate it even more. Filipino culture seems to the polar opposite of Japan. People there seem to have no structure to their social rules. Basically anything goes. Drinking, eating, and smoking on the street? Sure! Talking on the train? Absolutely! It’s weird to go from somewhere with such a rigid social behavior set up to one where it’s completely lax. I’m not saying I prefer the Japanese way to the Filipino way, but it was definitely a culture shock.
But, I am so glad to be back in Japan. School starts up again tomorrow. Unrelated, I’ve been in Japan for over two months now. There’s only about a month and a half left of this semester. I need to work out my winter break plans. I have a few ideas thrown out there from friends, but nothing set in stone yet. I don’t think there will be any more trips to South East Asia, though. Unless I go with someone who knows what they’re doing there.
That’s all for now! This post was massive. You know you love me.
xoxo